Great advice. One possible compensation would be to set your hig to a slightly larger angle for the tip to compensate for the angle change when filing. As a new knife maker, stuff like it worth its weight in gold. The Multi Guide Pro X effortlessly replaced my previous cross slide test unit. I would only add that it definitely makes sense to browse YouTube as many have built this kind of jigs with different little adjustments. Nice write up thank. For available mounting options please contact me. Whether you are a serious power grinder working everyday on or the occasional hobbyist the Multi Guide Pro X has benefits to offer you that will provide a good return on investment. Great details. This changed when I have accidentally came across the video from Aaron in which he describes in detail how to make a beveling jig using only very simple tools and materials - at that point I decided to give it a try - thank you Aaron! But I didn't think it through yet. Multi Guide Pro X Intro Video. Knife Bevels. Due to the high production cost of my personal cross slide test unit I was not willing to offer it to the knife making public. If you have you edge at the final, pre-HT thickness and do not want to grind it down, than mark the edge with a permanent marker. I agree that this kind of jig is better for shorter/outdoor knives than for a large thin kitchen blades. You should however also have a look at "Dreadnought" files - these have teeth ordered in curves and supposedly clog less while filing (you need to clean the file often while filing - with a steel brush). Launched as a Multi Guide it soon underwent design revisions, hardware, materials, and machining process upgrades that significantly in proved the performance of the system and it was released as the Multi Guide Pro. I am glad you find it helpful :) I am not posting too much on my YT but I may pull off a few videos this year as a part of some more technical articles. Faster than a free hand filing. Then I put on a Tri-Zact 220 grit to finish the bevel for pre-heat treat. One of my problems has been understanding the grind bevel degrees. For me it meant that swapping the sides of the knife I had to re-mount the guiding rod to the other side of the file. So before you read on, please watch the original video: From my point of view the main properties of this jig are the following: I have also added a second raw of mounting holes for working on smaller blades and to avoid grinding into the wood when getting closer to the tip. Hello,I have used a coarse double cut file (http://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/products/precision-files) - the model 1112300, cut #1. When I first started knife making I saw tons of makers stating that they get 3-5 knives per belt. Have fun making your first knife :). The blade will taper from the spine all the way to the edge of the blade. I am very happy I could be of help. Clean the blade (remove scratches) up to about grit 240 (i.e. Thank you for posting this. Using it was more enjoyable due to the reduced weight, compact size, increased accuracy, and reduced production cost. Using 3/8" thick steel the bevel grinder calculator suggest a 7.1 degree grind. For several years I have wanted to add a cross slide function but was not able to locate a suitable solution as an acceptable cost point. Due to the high production cost of my personal cross slide test unit I was not willing to offer it to the knife making public. Thank you so much. I appologize for missing your comment. I am 74 and have just started making knives. I am going to attempt to make this. I have been using DICK precision files: https://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/products/precision-files type 'Hand' length 12" and Cut #1 They are top quality and will grind many blades. Thank you for your blog it has been a great help to me. Once you are done with the grinding jig you move to free-hand grinding. I want to make a Tonto blade with a 1/2"bevel grind on each side. After HT the knife will be too hard to work with files. 60, 80, 120, 180, 240) before going for HT. Once you have the design and in particular the grind (geometric cross section) on paper - start to work your way down and draw straight lines how you want to get there with the grinding jig. The reason is as you grind higher up the blade you start to loose support area (once you switch to the other side). Holding the file on both ends with you hands you get very good control. What grinder did you end up getting? :). In this video I will show you how to create a knife bevel guide. Using it was more enjoyable due to the reduced weight, compact size, increased accuracy, and reduced production cost. You want to switch sides after each step and ideally a few times during the first grind as this is the one step in which you remove most of the material. As a knife maker first I developed the Multi Guide Pro for my personal use to decrease my cost of producing a knife. Takes about an hour per side on a 10 cm long outdoor knife blade. This file cuts on 3 sides - on of the short sides is without teeth. The main difference between kitchen and outdoor knives: Longer AND thinner blade; Much more acute grind; A simple full flat grind will not make for a great kitchen knife - you want either a wide-bevel grind or a convex grind of some sorts; Kitchen knives have pronounced distal taper from the handle towards the tip. Once I get most of the material removed I switch to a 3M Cubitron II in 80 grit to clean up the grind a bit. To grind the convex grind will take some basic math to thin of in advance and calculate the angles (and thus the height setting of the bolt) to make. wow so many cool tips and ideas, thx for sharing ! Kitchen knives have pronounced distal taper from the handle towards the tip. When I started toying with the idea of knife making I was mostly put off by the fact that one needs a belt grinder (or so I thought at that time) to be able to grind the bevels and I had neither the workshop space, nor did I want to spend 1500€+ on one. This system is great for knife makers that make medium to large runs of each style blade. If it is too much than you may need to add some more support under it, or use less pressure. Some machine platen holders may required modification to allow the Multi Guide Pro X to fit over the belt. Should you have an access to a workshop equipped with some sort of belt grinder you could grind the teeth from the short sides away.Another possibility would be to get a large Dreadnought File. Thanks for watching and please in joy :) Multi Guide Pro X in action:  Click here to see guide in action. And I just ruined my second one. I made my first two knives using a jig copied from Aarons , about 5 years ago.A pal of mine has since me a belt grinder which has only been used fro trials on hollow grinds.My original jig was destroyed by white ants and I intend to make a knew one, so thanks for the suggested changes, I feel that for me the jig is easier particularly for the smaller knives. These are supposed to have less problems with clogging and will also have both short sides without teeth. Complete Online Guide to Knife Making. If you have left the knife too thick further up from the edge you will need the most … I made a cross slide guide for myself and was able to explore the increased benefits of this function in the bevel grinding process. Remember - you can always remove metal if needed, but not put it back on the blade. I also ruined the tip of my first knife for the same reason. In August 2020 while doing research and testing on possible cross slide solution a winner was found. Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review. Now I am pleased to be able to offer the new Multi Guide Pro X with full confidence that it stands on a solid history of proven results and pushes the envelope of possibilities even further. The above means - you will be working on a large blade that in non hardened state is not all that stiff. After each step you want to remove the knife from the holder and measure the blade thickness at few positions (and different distances from the cutting edge) to see whether the grind follows what you have intended. Thanks for watching and please in joy :) The World's Easiest Grinding Jig for Knife Making - YouTube Does not work on hardened blades/steel (the files usually have hardness around HRC 64 - 66 - that is too close to the hardness of the blade, so you would just dull the files without removing much material. Tool Arm Adapter | Allows use of 1.5" Tool Arms in 2" Tool Slots, Heretic H2 Extreme Performance 2" X 72" Grinder. Unlike flat bevels, a full-flat grind will not leave a bevel line. In general you want to start from the edge (with the steepest grinding angle) and work your way towards the spine of the knife in subsequent steps. I am not going to copy in words what Aaron describes very well in his video, I would only add my experience and some slight adjustments I did to the basic design. Also what exact files do you recommend? While you can not avoid that, with regular swapping you can minimize the effect of possible asymmetry while grinding. I have a problem with the knife bending towards the tip area while filing ( long kitchen knife) and was thinking about using magnets to prevent that from happening. You get one or two steps finer file (the Cut #1 would leave crazy deep scratches) - I am using Cut #2. 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